It’s new bike day, either you’re waiting for it to turn up, or you have it in your front room. 

The anticipation is high; you want to get out and ride, but then you remember you have to set it up. 

Whether you’re a seasoned rider wanting a reminder or a new cyclist who needs some help, we are here to support you. In that vein, we’ve written a few guides to get you started. It’s not meant to be a comprehensive guide, just to get you moving and comfortable on your new bike. 

As always if we’ve missed something or if you need any further help, give us a call or an email on the contact form which you can find here and one of our team will be happy to help.

Continuing from our New Bike Setup Guide, which you can find here. In these articles, we’re going to take a deep dive into some of the more important topics.

If you’re planning to or have bought a bike from us in the last few years we’ll have asked you two specific questions: How much do you weigh and what’s your ride style?

The aim of this is to pre-set your suspension, getting the sag and the clicks to a usable point out of the box. This isn’t a one size fits all approach but it’s designed to give you a baseline to work from. You can then mess around to your heart's content, knowing that if you mess it up you can always go back.

Consider your ride style:

• Cross-Country (XC): Prioritize pedalling efficiency.

• Trail/All-Mountain: Balance of climbing and descending.

• Downhill (DH): Focus on maximum traction and control on descents.

Terrain:

• Technical: Softer suspension for more traction.

• Flowy: Firmer setup for faster rebound and more support.

We use your weight to set the sag and the rebound and the ride style or terrain to tune the compression.

In this article we’re going to go through some of the core principles, this will help you understand where it is and what you can do to change or refine it. Some of you will already know, some won’t but we’ll endeavour to give you some useful information.

Pre-Setup Checklist

1. You need a bike, preferably with suspension.

2. If you’ve had it for a while check the following:

• Have you serviced the suspension recently? If it’s not working properly or sticking then you might have a hard time telling the difference.

• Have you checked your pivot bearings, seals or other moving parts?

Tools: 

• A shock pump: These are high-pressure pumps designed to be used on suspension; your track pump won’t do. If you need a shock pump then click here to see our range.

• Sag measuring tool (Normally a tape measure or a ruler)

• Multitool or Allen keys, some brands like Fox use an Allen key for turning the dials.

• A notebook or a smartphone to record the settings.

Base settings

We sell a lot of bikes and a lot of brands which all use different suspension systems. Click on the brand and we’ll take you through the options.

Fox Suspension Setup

Rockshox Suspension Setup

Marzocchi Suspension Setup

Amflow Suspension Setup

Merida Suspension Setup

Mondraker Suspension Setup

Norco Ride Alligned Suspension Setup

Pivot Cycles

Santa Cruz Suspension Setup

Yeti Cycles Suspension Setup

Sag

Before starting with sag, think about what you’d normally wear and carry when riding. Shoes, bags, clothing, water. It all adds up and will influence your sag.

Sag refers to the amount your suspension will drop down to when sitting on the bike. This is measured when you’ve got equal weight on the front and rear of the bike. 

Most bike brands will specify the percentage of the travel it sits at but generally, you’ll go for 20% on the front and 30% on the back. 

Some bikes will cope better with numbers outside that, and some bikes like the Yeti Switch Infinity will have travel-specific kinematics that make it feel quite bad if you’re not exactly right.

How To Measure Sag:

1. Find yourself a clear spot to put your bike, ideally with a tall wall to lean against to balance yourself. Remove any pets or children from the vicinity and anything that makes you think about Final Destination if you fall over.

2. Climb on the bike, give it a few bounces and let it settle, remember to weigh both front and rear wheels.

3. Move the sag indicator ring to the top of the seal PHOTO

4. Gently climb off the bike, making sure to not bounce on the suspension

5. Get your tape measure and record the measurement from the ring to the seal.

6. If you have a Rockshox shock and fork, you are in luck, it’s written on the stanchion, if it’s not then measure the total length of travel and find the ideal percentage.

7. If it’s right then winner, if it’s not then you’ll need to pump up or let out air from the valve to set it correctly.

   1. Forks and shocks have positive and negative air chambers, there’s normally a little cut-out in the air spring that allows air to equalise between the two. When you add or remove air, remember to push the suspension up and down a few times to equalise. 

8. Once you’ve put in or taken out some air, normally 10-15 psi, remove the pump, equalise the airspring and sit on the bike again to check.

9. Keep going until you’ve met the desired sag measurement.

Rebound Damping:

Imagine a balloon, you blow it up until it’s ready to burst. If you push your finger into it and let go, it’ll fling off at great speed. If it’s a more squishy balloon then it’ll fling off much slower.

The same thing happens when you put more air in your fork or shock. The problem is that when you compress the balloon in this case it’ll fire you off into the bushes when you land a particularly large impact.

The rebound damping uses oil resistance to limit this effect. The more air you put in, the more rebound damping you need. This is usually referred to as closed for more damping and open for less.

This means you should always change the rebound when changing the sag.

Compression Damping:

The rebound damping uses oil to limit the speed the fork comes back up, the compression uses oil resistance to limit the speed the fork can go down.

Essentially on impact, the compression stops your suspension from diving too quickly and upsetting the bike.

There are two different types of compression damping available on modern suspension. High and low speed. This refers to the shaft speed. A bigger dynamic force will make the suspension move faster (HS), and a smaller or more chattery force or your weight balance on steep terrain will make the suspension move more slowly(LS).

Using this as a principle you can tune your suspension to feel different on different terrain. 

• If you only ride super steep stuff then increasing the low-speed compression on your fork will make the fork sit higher in its travel preserving the geometry for a more stable ride and more preparedness for bigger impacts.

• If you often hit bigger features and smash through your travel a lot, increasing the high-speed compression will let your bike absorb those impacts while making it a bit more controllable and setting the bike a little higher in its travel for the next feature.

• If you ride lots of flowy terrain, you can increase high and low speed together to stop the suspension sapping your energy when pumping.

• If you want maximum grip on janky terrain, dial it back to soften things up.

We always recommend starting with the bike’s recommended settings, if you get out and test your bike, note how it feels.

• If it’s too firm, it’ll feel harsh and get less traction

• If it’s too soft then it’ll bottom out a lot and feel unstable on bigger impacts.

Increase or decrease 2 clicks at a time and record what you’ve done and how it feels. Try to make little changes and keep it to one thing at a time.

Balancing Front and Rear Suspension

This is important because if you have the front and rear doing different things it’ll feel like a rocking horse.

It’ll lead to poor handling, tipping you back and forth, unpredictable traction and a sore back.

• If your sag is set perfectly, bounce the bike up and down and see what it does, if the rear feels like a pogo stick and the front feels lovely then you might have mixed up open and closed. If so, have a double-check.

• If the front has really open compression and the rear doesn’t, you’ll find yourself pitching forward when riding rough terrain. 

• If you’re not correcting or testing something, always change the front and rear together.

Volume Tokens

Volume tokens reduce the air volume in your suspension, if you keep the pressure the same but you move through the travel, the pressure increases at a steeper rate giving the bike a more progressive feel and making it more resistant to bottom out while keeping the top of the stroke nice and supple.

If you are using all of your travel too much and your sag is correct, consider using another token.

If you’re not using all of the travel then you might have too many spacers so consider removing one.

Remember to check your sag after changing tokens.

Testing procedures

1. Find a trail you know well, make sure it’s repeatable and you can lap it without getting too tired.

2. Test the bike in its baseline settings, and note down anything that stands out in its current condition. Note down the settings as it is.

3. Adjust one parameter, such as Sag, Rebound, or Compression and repeat the test.

4. Record the feedback after every change.

What to look for:

• Does the bike feel planted and controlled?

• Does it bottom out or feel harsh over bumps?

• Is it stable during braking or cornering?

• Is it tracking the ground and providing grip where needed?

Pro Tips

1. Revisit Settings After a Few Rides

   • Why?: Suspension components "break in" over time as seals, lubricants, and internals settle into their operating conditions. This can slightly change how the suspension feels and performs.

   • How?:

     • Ride for 10–20 hours on the initial setup.

     • Recheck sag, damping settings, and overall feel.

     • Make small adjustments to fine-tune as necessary.

   • Pro Insight: A well-broken-in suspension will feel more compliant and consistent, so patience is key.

2. Always Test Adjustments in Small Increments

   • Why?: Small changes (e.g., 1–2 clicks of damping adjustment) can have a significant impact. Testing large changes makes it harder to isolate the cause of a difference in performance.

   • How?:

     • Change only one setting at a time (e.g., rebound, compression, or sag).

     • Ride the same trail section multiple times to compare the impact of changes.

     • Keep notes on every adjustment (e.g., “2 clicks faster rebound – better small bump compliance, slightly less stable”).

   • Pro Insight: This methodical approach ensures you find the perfect balance without creating new issues.

3. Choose Familiar Trails for Testing

   • Why?: Riding a trail you know well helps you focus on how the bike feels rather than learning the trail’s challenges.

   • How?:

     • Pick a trail that reflects the type of terrain you ride most often (e.g., rocky descents, flowy berms, technical climbs).

     • Use a short, repeatable section with a mix of features for comprehensive testing.

   • Pro Insight: Familiarity allows you to compare runs accurately and detect subtle differences in suspension performance.

4. Account for Environmental Conditions

   • Why?: Factors like temperature, altitude, and humidity can affect suspension performance.

     • Temperature: Cold weather thickens suspension oil, making damping slower. Warm weather has the opposite effect.

     • Altitude: Higher altitudes reduce air pressure, affecting air suspension.

   • How?:

     • In cold conditions: Soften rebound and compression damping slightly.

     • In hot conditions: Tighten damping slightly to compensate for thinner oil.

     • At high altitudes: Adjust air pressure to maintain the desired sag.

   • Pro Insight: Keep an eye on these variables, especially if travelling to new riding locations.

Troubleshooting Common Problems 

1. Ride Feels Too Harsh or Uncomfortable

Symptoms:

• The suspension feels stiff and transmits bumps harshly to the rider.

• Poor small bump compliance (e.g., struggles to absorb small roots or rocks).

Possible Causes:

• Too much air pressure or spring preload.

• Low-speed compression (LSC) is too firm.

• Sag is set too low (not enough suspension travel being used).

Solutions:

• Check Sag:

  • Ensure sag is within the recommended range (25–30% for rear, 15–20% for fork).

  • Reduce air pressure or preload if the sag is too low.

• Adjust Compression:

  • Soften LSC by turning it counterclockwise (reduce firmness).

  • Test in small increments (e.g., 1–2 clicks at a time).

• Verify Tire Pressure:

  • Overinflated tyres can amplify harshness. Use pressures appropriate for rider weight and terrain.

2. Bottoming Out Frequently

Symptoms:

• Suspension hits full travel too easily on big impacts or jumps.

• Loud “clunking” noise at full compression.

Possible Causes:

• Not enough compression damping (especially high-speed compression).

• The air pressure or spring rate is too low.

• No volume spacers or insufficient progressivity in the suspension.

Solutions:

• Increase HSC:

  • Turn the HSC adjuster clockwise to add firmness for large impacts.

• Add Air Pressure or Spring Rate:

  • Increase air pressure in the fork or shock.

  • If using a coil shock, switch to a stiffer spring (heavier spring rate).

• Install Volume Spacers:

  • Add volume spacers to increase suspension progressivity (ramp-up in stiffness as it compresses).

3. Suspension Feels Unstable or "Bouncy"

Symptoms:

• The bike feels uncontrolled, especially after hitting bumps or landing jumps.

• Suspension rebounds too quickly, making the bike difficult to handle.

Possible Causes:

• Rebound damping is too fast.

• The air pressure or spring rate is too low.

Solutions:

• Slow Down Rebound Damping:

  • Turn the rebound adjuster clockwise (add more damping) in small increments.

  • Test on repeated trail sections and adjust as needed.

• Check Sag and Air Pressure:

  • Ensure the suspension is not under-pressurized, causing excessive travel.

• Verify Tire Pressure:

  • Underinflated tyres can also contribute to a bouncy feel.

4. Suspension Feels “Dead” or Unresponsive

Symptoms:

• Suspension doesn’t seem to move enough, and feels sluggish or stiff.

• Poor grip or traction, especially on rough terrain.

Possible Causes:

• Rebound damping is too slow.

• Compression damping is too firm.

• Excessive air pressure or spring preload.

Solutions:

• Speed Up Rebound Damping:

  • Turn the rebound adjuster counterclockwise (reduce damping).

  • Test on repeated trail sections and find a balance where the bike feels responsive but controlled.

• Soften Compression Settings:

  • Reduce LSC (and HSC if applicable) to improve sensitivity.

• Recheck Sag:

  • If the sag is too low, reduce air pressure or preload to allow the suspension to use more travel.

5. Suspension Feels Unbalanced (Front vs. Rear)

Symptoms:

• The bike feels unbalanced or unpredictable, especially in corners or over bumps.

• The front fork feels softer or firmer than the rear shock, or vice versa.

Possible Causes:

• Sag or damping settings are mismatched between the fork and shock.

• Rebound or compression settings differ too much front-to-rear.

Solutions:

• Recheck Sag:

  • Match front and rear sag to appropriate percentages (e.g., 20% front, 30% rear).

• Balance Rebound:

  • Push down on the bike and observe how the fork and shock return. Adjust rebound so both ends rebound at a similar speed.

• Match Compression:

  • Ensure LSC and HSC settings complement each other for consistent performance.

  • For climbing, slightly firmer rear compression can help prevent bobbing.

6. Excessive Pedal Bob or Squatting on Climbs

Symptoms:

• The rear suspension compresses excessively during pedalling.

• Energy loss, especially noticeable on climbs.

Possible Causes:

• Low-speed compression damping (LSC) is too soft.

• Sag is set too high.

Solutions:

• Increase LSC:

  • Turn the LSC adjuster clockwise to reduce suspension movement during pedalling.

• Check and Adjust Sag:

  • If sag is too high (e.g., over 30%), increase air pressure or preload.

7. Poor Traction or Skipping Over Bumps

Symptoms:

• Tires lose contact with the ground on rough terrain.

• Suspension doesn’t absorb bumps effectively.

Possible Causes:

• Rebound damping is too slow or too fast.

• Compression damping is too firm.

• The air pressure is too high.

Solutions:

• Adjust Rebound:

  • If too slow, speed it up by turning the adjuster counterclockwise.

  • If too fast, slow it down (clockwise) to maintain control.

• Soften Compression:

  • Reduce LSC or HSC to allow the suspension to absorb bumps more effectively.

• Reduce Air Pressure:

  • Slightly lower air pressure for better small bump sensitivity.

8. Braking Feels Harsh or Unpredictable

Symptoms:

• Front suspension dives excessively under braking.

• The rear suspension feels harsh when braking.

Possible Causes:

• The fork's LSC is too soft, causing diving.

• Rear rebound damping is too fast, amplifying harshness.

Solutions:

• Adjust Fork LSC:

  • Increase LSC (clockwise) to reduce fork dive under braking.

• Slow Rear Rebound:

  • Add damping to control rear-end movement and improve braking stability.

As always make sure you keep to your service intervals and if you’re not sure always seek professional advice.

We hope you found this useful and hope you have a great time on the trails.