In this article, we'll learn how to bed in your new mountain bike disc brakes properly. Follow this step-by-step guide to maximise braking power, improve performance, and extend the lifespan of your brake pads and rotors.

Bedding in your brakes

What does it mean? How do you do it? Why can't I stop!

When you buy a new bike, you might find your brakes don't work quite as well as they should. Bedding in brakes is the process of gradually transferring a thin, even layer of brake pad material onto the rotor surface to get maximum friction and braking performance. This controlled wear-in phase smooths out microscopic imperfections, increases stopping power, and prevents issues like brake squeal, vibration, or inconsistent braking. Without proper bedding in brakes can feel weak, noisy, or unpredictable, reducing both safety and control on the trail.

Doing this the right way will: 

1. Increase braking power and modulation
2. Prevent brake fade and inconsistent stopping
3. Extend the lifespan of pads and rotors

Step-by-Step Guide to Bedding In New Disc Brakes

Step 1: Find a Safe Location

Choose a flat, smooth surface, such as an empty car park or a quiet stretch of road. Bedding in requires controlled, repeatable braking, so avoid loose trails or steep descents where you might struggle to maintain consistency.

Step 2: Accelerate to a Moderate Speed

Start riding and bring your bike up to a moderate speed – around 15-20 mph (25-30 km/h) is ideal. Different manufacturers recommend slightly different speeds, but as long as it’s fast enough to require firm braking, you’re on the right track.

Step 3: Apply the Brakes Firmly, But Don’t Stop

Squeeze the front or rear brake firmly, slowing the bike to a walking pace (about 2-4 mph). Avoid coming to a complete stop, as this can cause uneven pad material deposition, leading to poor performance or vibration.

• Apply steady, controlled braking pressure.
• Do not lock up the wheels or skid.
• Release the brakes before fully stopping.

Repeat this step 20 to 50 times per brake, depending on your brake manufacturer’s recommendation.

Step 4: Increase Speed and Repeat

Once you've completed the first set of braking cycles, increase your speed slightly and repeat the process 10-15 more times. This helps finalise the pad material transfer and ensures your brakes are fully bedded in.

Step 5: Let the Brakes Cool

After completing the process, avoid hard braking for a few minutes to allow the pads and rotors to cool naturally. This prevents glazing, which can reduce braking performance.

Frequently Asked Questions: Bedding In MTB Disc Brakes

Q: Why do I need to bed in new brakes?

Bedding in your disc brakes is essential because it creates a strong, even layer of brake pad material on the rotor surface. This process ensures:

• Maximum braking power – Fresh pads and rotors have microscopic imperfections that need to be smoothed out for optimal friction.
• Better modulation – Properly bedded brakes allow for smoother and more predictable stopping power.
• Increased longevity – Without bedding in, pads can glaze over, reducing effectiveness and causing premature wear.
• Reduced noise and vibration – Uneven pad material transfer can cause squealing and pulsing under braking.

If you skip this step, your brakes will feel weak, inconsistent, and noisy, leading to poor performance on the trails.

Q: How many times should I repeat the bed-in process?

Most manufacturers recommend repeating the bed-in cycle between 20 and 50 times per brake. The exact number depends on factors like:

• Brake brand and model – Some brands require more repetitions (e.g., Hayes suggests 50, while SRAM recommends 30).
• Rotor size – Larger rotors need more cycles for full pad material transfer.
• Rider weight – Lighter riders may need additional cycles to generate enough heat for proper bedding.
• Pad and rotor materials – Organic pads bed in faster than sintered (metallic) pads, which require more heat.

A good rule of thumb is to perform at least 30 moderate stops per brake before taking your bike on a serious ride.

Q: Can I bed in my brakes on a trail ride?

It’s not recommended to bed in new brakes on a trail, especially on steep descents or technical terrain. Instead, use a flat, smooth surface like pavement where you can control your speed and braking force.

Trail riding while bedding in can lead to:

• Uneven pad material transfer due to inconsistent braking.
• Glazed brake pads if you accidentally lock the wheels.
• Dangerous loss of control if brakes suddenly bite harder than expected.

Always perform the bed-in process before hitting the trails for your first proper ride.

Q: What happens if I don’t bed in my brakes properly?

If you skip or rush the bed-in process, you’ll likely experience:

• Weak braking performance – Your brakes may feel spongy and require more force to slow down.
• Glazed pads and rotors – Overheated pads can become hard and smooth, reducing their ability to generate friction.
• Uneven pad material transfer – This can cause brake pulsing, vibration, and inconsistent braking power.
• Noisy brakes – Squealing and grinding noises often indicate improper bedding-in.

If your brakes feel off after skipping the bed-in process, you may need to re-burnish them by removing the pads, lightly sanding them, and repeating the process.

Q: Should I use water to bed in my brakes?

Some mechanics suggest spraying a small amount of clean water onto the pads and rotors during the bed-in process to create a pad material slurry. This can help accelerate material transfer, especially with organic pads. However, this is an advanced technique and should only be used if you’re confident in your process.

For most riders, a dry bed-in procedure is the safest and most effective method.

Q: Why shouldn’t I come to a complete stop while bedding in my brakes?

Stopping completely during the bed-in process can cause:

• Uneven pad deposits – Holding the brake lever while stationary can lead to irregular pad material buildup on the rotor.
• Hot spots on the rotor – This can result in pulsing brakes and reduced performance.
• Glazing of the pads – Especially if the pads overheat and harden.

Instead, you should gradually slow down to a walking pace and then release the brakes before stopping completely.

Q: My brakes still feel weak after bedding in—what went wrong?

If your brakes lack power even after a full bed-in process, check for these common issues:

1. Pad contamination – Oil, grease, or dirt on the pads or rotors can ruin braking performance. Clean your rotors with isopropyl alcohol and replace the pads if necessary.
2. Improper bed-in technique – If you didn’t perform enough cycles or braked too gently, the pad material may not have transferred correctly. Try repeating the process with firmer braking.
3. Glazed brake pads – If the pads got too hot, they might have glazed over. Lightly sand them with fine-grit sandpaper and try the bed-in process again.
4. Loose or misaligned callipers – Make sure your brake callipers are centred and torqued to spec.
5. Worn or low-quality pads – If your pads are old or low-quality, they may never achieve full performance. Consider upgrading to sintered metallic pads for aggressive riding or organic pads for quieter performance.

If problems persist, a professional brake bleed may be necessary.

Q: Do I need to bed in brakes after replacing just the pads or rotors?

Yes! Any time you install new pads or rotors, you must re-bed the brakes to ensure proper material transfer and performance.

• New pads on old rotors – The fresh pad material needs to be deposited onto the existing rotor surface.
• New rotors with old pads – The pads need to wear in to match the new rotor’s surface.
• New pads and new rotors – A full bed-in process is essential for optimal performance.

Skipping this step can result in poor braking power and uneven wear.

Q: Can I bed in rim brakes the same way as disc brakes?

No, the bedding-in process for rim brakes is different. While they also require a break-in period, rim brake pads wear against the wheel’s braking surface instead of a separate rotor.

For rim brakes:

• Ride at a moderate speed and apply the brakes firmly but smoothly multiple times.
• Avoid harsh or prolonged braking on the first few rides.
• Make sure the pads are properly aligned with the rim braking surface.

Since rim brakes rely on friction against the wheel itself, contamination (like dirt or grease) can greatly reduce performance.

Q: How do I know when my brakes are fully bedded in?

Your brakes are properly bedded in when you notice:

• Increased stopping power – Braking should feel stronger and more responsive.
• Smoother engagement - The brakes should feel progressive rather than grabby.
• Consistent performance – There should be no pulsing, noise, or fading under normal conditions.
• No excessive squealing or vibration – These are signs of uneven pad material transfer.

Once your brakes feel solid and predictable, they’re ready for full-speed trail riding.